Ok, so I don’t know if I have talked about pack weight and temperatures before or not. It’s a very big deal. My first trek out on the Okanagan High Rim Trail in 2017 was attempted with basically no training – or at least proper training, 70 to 80 pounds on my back - I think I documented 60 pounds in a previous blog entry, but it was definitely more once I started to weigh my stuff individually by the gram.
Think of the movie Wild. That girl. The night before her PCT trek. The difference was I was packed with everything ready to go a month in advance and I also made sure I knew how to use things. Remember how she couldn’t lift her pack? That was me. Turtling your body to get into it and rolling over to get on all fours? That was me. I laughed so hard during that scene. I still do.
I was “smarter” on my 2nd, more successful attempt in 2018. I started reading ultralight backpacking books. Getting feedback from my backpacking guru. Thinking things through a lot. I apparently didn’t think things through enough though.
One of the things the ultralight book “taught” me was that I don’t need clothing more than what I wear to hike, especially when the weather forecast says full sun all week. I was going to stink anyway, so just wear the same thing.
Well, yeah, I’m up in the mountains. I’m wet with sweat. I got wetter from the rain. Wet clothing up in the mountains, even in July? Bad idea.
Point is though, I was able to have my complete pack weight be 34 pounds, which included my food and water. Was fantastic! Felt so much better like they always tell me online.
So I felt it was all worth it.
But was it?
I didn’t think so when I was so wet. I was miserable for a few days due to that major mistake.
Always bring a sleeping outfit. DUH!
Always bring a raing jacket. DUH!
Always put your tent fly right side up (haha). DUH.
So just a hiking outfit (only one!!!) and a sleeping outfit (only one!!!) is what I take now.
Above is my current sleep outfit minus my optional liner socks in case I'm extra cold and of course I left out my gotchies. No one needs to see that! As I look at this now,, reading what I wrote below, I can't believe what I was thinking!
I had my pack weight up at 40 pounds a couple of weeks ago. Without food and my 2 pound sleeping bag among some other items. I figured my food would be 2 to 2.5 pounds a day, as that is what it was in the past, and that’s what they say usually is needed. And I thought, good grief, I don’t want to be carrying more than 40 pounds. I don’t want to be over 50 either. What can I cut out?
I was able to shed 8 pounds of pack weight. I figured ok, most of that will be gained back in food weight. So I wasn’t feeling too bad about that. Turns out that my food actually only weighs 6.5 pounds (not sure how I managed that). So that was good!
I took out a lot of stuff that just wasn’t a full on need. I took out the rain pants. Legs I can handle getting wet. I kept the rain jacket in. The thing with the pants is it’s just too hot. And each item of that rain suit weighs about a pound. You wouldn’t think so, but when I weighed it, yep that was it. I don’t have ultralight gear, at least not yet, so I’m working with what I have.
Anyway, I cut out my down jacket which I use for a sleeping layer. It’s also for if it gets cold. I figured if I get cold, my rain jacket will be good, as nothing is getting in or out of that sucker. I also changed my sleeping pants from warm fleece (also a pound) and replaced them with some leggings. My sleeping bag is women’s, good for minus 9. So, yeah I should be ok right?
Well…two days ago I started to think. Wondering, how cold does it actually get up there at night? I remember it gets pretty chilly. Day time is between 30 and 40 celsius (or it has been in my experiences), but night is a whole other thing!
I looked at Kelowna’s average low temperatures for July. The average is 12 Celsius. Then I double checked the elevation I was climbing to. So if the temperatures down here are actually 12 at night, my temperatures up there would be averaging at 4 Celsius!
FOUR!!!!!!!!
Guess who quickly changed the gear list again?
I remember my first night in 2017. I was heat exhausted. Couldn’t eat (forced down a protein bar), ingesting anything made me gag, the thought of food made me want to throw up. So after that bar, I drank as much as I could. Then went to bed at 7:30 PM.
I was so hot. I couldn’t cool down. It was horrible! So I went to sleep outside of my sleeping bag with no sleep clothes. I was not comfortable. I was not happy. I wonder how close I was to being really sick? I woke up at 2 AM freezing. Completely shivering! It felt as if it were November and I had no winter jacket. I quickly dressed and snuggled into my bag. So yeah, I know to be a little more prepared and my brain started to kick in again the other day.
2018. Was I cold? Well yes I was because I was wet. I’m lucky nothing bad happened!
So I’m happy about my final decision on the heavier items. An extra 1.5 pounds for comfort during sleep during a time that you really need it is worth it.
Did I describe it
that way on Day 2? Because, Day 2 was pretty bad with the rain. I remember it
being nicer on Day 3. Much more clear. But I also remember it in a dim light.
So I’m not sure if that is because of my experience or the weather. I think it
was the weather. However, I remember Day 3 and 4 as not too pleasant. Let’s see…
Oh hey! I discovered
as I was packing up that I put the tent fly on upside down. This could be the
reason why I had leakage in my tent. I hoped that it wouldn’t rain again to
test that out because the rain can just go away for another day…Yeah, I’m
corny. So what?
It was a very hot
day.
I stink even more.
God did I stink! This
might be TMI but I mean this literally…I smelled like urine. No, I didn’t wet
myself. But that’s all I could smell. It was in my clothes, it was in my nose.
Gross. Then on top of that I had the stink of the trail. I was quite dirty. Filthy,
actually, but I wasn’t looking to stay clean haha.
Let’s see…I’m
describing it as hell on Earth? Yeah, it really was. It was super-hot and I
wasn’t protected under the canopy of deep forest. I’m assuming there was a fire
in this area because it was all full of young bush and trees or completely open
and full of tree debris.
I’m running out of
water. I’m down to my last ¾ of a litre…Saving it as long as I can manage. I’m
seriously worried at this point. According to maps and my gps map, there is no
water for quite some time…not until I get to Hayhurst Lake. That was also a
long way off.
Oh guess what??????
My prayers were answered! There was a small trickling “stream” along the side
of the trail. I’m around Lake Country at this point. Funny…no lakes in sight
haha. But I DID have a tiny little thing…trickling from a murkier muddier part.
I’m not sure how long this stream stays on the trail through our hot dry
summers, but it was there for me then, thankfully!
Getting my pack off
right away, I pulled out my Lifestraw. I remember Bob asking me what I needed
it for when we were looking at ways to cut some ounces off my pack weight. I
told him that it was my back-up water in case something happened to my pill
treatments. I’m not messing around with water, especially on this trail, as it’s
pretty sparse there.
Anyway, rather than
waste any time, as I was basically out of water at this point, out came the Lifestraw,
and there I was on my belly, sticking the sucker in there and sucking for dear
life. It tasted so good. I had never appreciated water so much. This stop took
me a very long time. I was probably there an hour at least between me drinking
as much as I could, collected 4 bottles worth of water and then treating them
with my pills. Then I had to fill my water bladder with two litres and start
again for another round of pills for two bottles.
I was able to
eventually carry on.
I can’t believe how
bad some parts of the trail were. Places the Okanagan High Rim Trail
Association hadn’t hit yet (partly what I was supposed to do was report where
there were problem areas). I hit Echo FSR and then a huge clearing which I had
considered camping for the night. Was a pretty area. But it is only 2 PM or so
and I still had energy to carry on.
I came across a
little stream, which I found out was called South Clark Creek. I considered
getting some of that water but felt I was ok since it was a bit murky. I could
have grabbed some I suppose. What was that lesson I learned last year? Oh yeah…fill
up wherever you possible can, Nat. Buuuuuuut, I didn’t do it. I mean that one
bottle that was empty was worth it wasn’t it? Well, it was a total pain in the
butt to undo everything to do that, so I didn’t do it.
I turned to the right
after the creek, following the trail.
Oh. My. God.
I quickly got out my
phone and texted my buddy, the President of the association. I said, “I’ve got
to be off the trail right?” Checked my GPS. Texted him back right away, using a
very bad curse word saying that I am indeed on the trail.
What I could see is
the trail straight ahead and all I can see is windfall as far as the trail
went. I can’t remember now how many there were, there were probably about ten “areas”
of stuff to climb over or crawl under. I could have cried. It was that bad. But
I carried on. Oh my. I was pretty full with water, so this was tough.
Guys, it was bad.
There were so many in each spot that it was hard to climb over or duck under
most of them. It reminded me of KM 20-24 of last year. But it was worse because
they were all so close together. What I did was took my pack off, took all
water out, including the bladder (real pain in the butt by the way…taking that
off and putting it back on…).
My process:
1.Moved my pack to the next set of trees
2.Pushed it under
3.Went back for my water, brought it to the
next set
4.Pushed it under.
5.Climbed over or crawled under the trees.
6.Repeat.
It took me forever to
get past that patch and it was not a big area.
But…SUCCESS!
Water is getting a
little light in weight again. *SIGH* I might be remembering how much water I
had at South Clark Creek wrong, or not sure how much time actually passed by the
time I got to the area where there was total open air and nothing but debris on
either side of the trail, as well as slopes. I’m low on water. Very low on
water. I was worried again. This is a very dry area. I text my buddy again… “Please
tell me that there is a place to camp close to Shorts Canyon!”…knowing that I
was getting close to Shorts. I was exhausted. He told me that, yes there is a
great place just before South Clark Creek. *sigh* Yeah, that place that I
considered. Haha, joke’s on me!
I was so close to
deciding to camp right on the trail. Just lay down and use my tent fly as a
tarp to cover myself from dew.
And then, there it
was. I came to an old FSR. Overgrown, so it hadn’t been used in forever. Huge
open field to the right of it. Firepit. White flowers all over the field. Very
pretty.
I hung my clothes and
other stuff up to dry in a tree, set camp and prepared to eat a meal. I ate a
Mountain House Lasagna meal. Was actually pretty good! First time I actually
felt an appetite to eat anything.
Texted my husband to
tell him what was up and describe as best as I can as to where I was (as if
that would help lol). I might have sent a GPS location which is my way, but I
don’t remember. Anyway, I told him that I’m almost out of water and looking to
get some at Hayhurst Lake the next day. I figured I was at around 37 km. When
looking at it later, I was indeed at around 37.5 km.
That night, I dreamt
of partying teens showing up and stopping because my tent was right there on
the road haha. I just remember dreaming that I was going to have to move it. I
think I slept pretty decently that night.
Woke on Day 4.
Now I really stink.
EDIT: Looking back at this post, noticing the picture of Vernon creek (the first pic)...I'm remembering crossing it. In 2017 when I planned a mini trip, I approached this creek from the other direction and did not trust this bridge. The hand rail was not there at that time. I took one look at the bridge and said out loud, "Not on your life!" and forded it instead. Almost fell several times. I was already exhausted and had to climb out, which was a bit of an ordeal physically lol. Anyway, made my way back to the end of the bridge, got back on the trail and swore. Several lovely flowered statements as I looked up the trail. And I mean I looked UP. Oh God. was horrible to look at it haha. The hill was BIG. Halfway up I heard a moose and freaked out a little bit. Would be a bad place to run into on (or it running into me as they like to)...straight up, to the left it was practically vertical with rock and hill, to the right was basically straight down almost. Come to think of it, this was a scary place to be period, as the trail itself was a skinny little thing. One wrong step and I shudder at the thought!
In 2018, as I headed north that time, it was a little better going down. But it was kinda scary for the same reasons as above. The HUGE tree "pile" across the trail was still there. Difficult to pass with a backpack on. But I made it.
What I was REALLY happy about was the Okanagan High Rim Trail Association had updated the bridge so that there was a handrail (THANK YOU GUYS!!!!) and when I made it to the other side, I was so relieved. It was still freaky passing the creek on that bridge. I was so happy. As usual, I talked to myself and said something like, "I did it!" I'll include a link to the video of the OHRTA putting up the rail.
Some pictures from
Day 3.
High Rim Trail - Okanagan High Rim Trial Association updating the Vernon Creek bridge.
So it's day one of my High Rim Trail trek. Got up at 5 AM for my daily me time. Funny, the whole trip was going to be me time, but this is a habit. I planned on 5 days (4 nights) as I wanted to take my time. Maybe if I was motivated and able I could go further on my day 2 so that I could manage to have two nights at Damer Lake. I figured it would be nice to have a nice relaxing rest.
So there you have it. The plan, Stan. I spent months planning it out, looking at different scenarios, remembering things from last year, really remembering where things that went wrong. I was NOT going to get lost this time!
Funny how things don't always go as planned!
So we get to the entrance at Philpott road. We could see the differences from the fires of last August. There was still a little bit of forest at the very start, but around the area was wide open. Once I got in there a little, I could see the damage that had been done. Wow, a huge field of ascending dirt. The dirt is almost like sand now. I kind of felt it was worse than snow, but that was just while I was doing it lol. This picture doesn't look like that's how it was. Maybe it's not as bad as I remember. *shrug* I swear it was quite awful.
Then it started. Wouldn't you know it, I fell sideways. Slipped on the dirt. I can't imagine what this would be like if it had rained recently, or if it had been raining.
"We just had our glitch for this mission."
100 points for whoever knows this movie quote.
Then it continued. I turtled! Fell straight on my back. Thankfully the pack saved me from any injury I think that would have really hurt. Not that things didn't hurt but I can't imagine what the pain in my back would be like. All I kept thinking was damn, my water supply my water supply my water supply!!!! There is a tiny hole near the opening of my water reservoir and water leaks quickly out of it. I also worried about the possibility that it had burst.
None of this was in Stan's plan. I swear!
I couldn't get up. I was trapped in my pack. I wish I was with someone as originally planned so they could video tape me trying. It must have looked hilarious!! So I had to get out of the pack manually and put it back on. All the while, time is ticking and I'm thinking oh wow how is my water supply going to look? Water is very scarce up there!
I got up, undid the water packing process (difficult) and took a look at my pack. Checked my water supply.
All is well.
Redid the water packing process (difficult).
Got the pack back on my back (difficult).
Bent down and picked up my poles (difficult).
Yep all is well.
Nope, not all is well. I am within my first kilometre and one of my poles is completely bent at a 90 degree angle. Not good. I thought, "well maybe I can bend it the other way and just have a crooked pole." Nope. It promptly snapped right off lol.
So I carry on, holding the two pole pieces in my left hand. This is awkward. It's awkward using one pole, especially in this beach-like sandy dirt. I was so thrilled to get past all of that crap and thought, what can I do with these two pieces?
Then I remembered I wrapped lots of Duck tape on my poles. Tape them together, Nat. Yes, yes that will be what I do. This was a suggestion from my friend "Bob." Know what? Duck tape fixes everything! Lesson learned.
I carry on a little further and realized I was using it even though it was a little short. Ding ding ding ding ding! Why didn't I tape it longer? Nat's not too bright. I did that and it was still shorter than the other pole, but totally useable and I finally came to where the forest "began."
Had some windfall to deal with, but very do-able. Got my water supply replenished at km 4. That's where the little kitchen is. Always thought it was so charming. I don't dare sit on those chairs though. I don't need any ticks on me. it would be so nice to sit on them though. I guess it doesn't matter if I sit on those or on the ground, but whatever. I made it through Cardiac Hill.
Some pictures between km 3 and 5. The plastic chairs at km 5 were absent this time, unless someone hid them to protect them from storms. Heck, a storm in the winter or even summer will do it. Was looking forward to a little spot to sit just a few minutes. You know...fear of ticks.
Some more pictures just because (I think they are out of order because I'm having trouble with my picture drive):
Between km 6 and 7 I had a situation happen that was similar to what happened on day two of last year. If any of you read about my adventure with a mama grouse that attacked me to protect her young (scared everything in me out)...well I let out a bit of a funny noise again when this little guy was moving from the trail out of my way.
Now to be clear, I'm not afraid of birds and toads lol, but when they jump out in front of you when you are not expecting it while being in nature, enjoying every second of the wilderness or if they full out attack you (don't eff with a mama anything!) then yeah, I'll make some noises of my own and lose my whatever I've got haha.
Just before Goudie Road, I came across the ladder that goes over the barbed wire fence. Picture here to remind those who read my previous entry. I had to drag my pack underneath the fence and climbed over the dicey ladder on my own, which was still threatening to break and hurt me greatly. I think people I know were thinking of fixing it and I'm not sure if they did, they must have done SOMETHING because when I tested it out, I felt ok with climbing over it with my pack. Was still a little bit uncomfortable but at least I didn't have to remove the pack.
Lovely picture of the Goudie Road trailhead. I always like getting here.
Now, when I had hit Goudie Road (always a great milestone, as you are more than halfway to the Grand View) I actually used the water source that was there. Last year, I didn't and was sorry as I almost ran out of water. But I learned the hard way and was smarter about water. It's scarce up there like I said and I knew that last year, but didn't think it was as bad as it is. Bad move.
Anyway, my next topic is supposed to be mosquitos. They weren't nearly as bad as last year. They were pretty good. Until I got to km 10. They literally attack you, you know? But I didn't feel the need for my bug net. I just sprayed Muskol on my wrists, top of my hands and neck and all they did was fly around me but they didn't land. Kept applying as needed. Just wanted to kill all those buggers.
The coolest thing about everything is that I remembered things. I remembered when they were going to happen too. I saw this as a good sign for when I got to the part that I got lost on last year. I think that between that, my newly developed hiking common sense and the wonderfully new trail markers throughout (put in place and maintained by the newly formed Okanagan High Rim Trail Association, yay! https://www.highrimtrail.ca/ Kudos guys!) I would be a-ok.
Video of my progress at km 13.5
Speaking of remembering things. I almost got lost two times (well not totally because this time I always made sure that I knew how to get back to a certain point if I needed to back track). When you get to forestry service roads, you need to really be on your A game and pay attention. The funniest thing about one of these experiences was that I recognized the hill on one of them. Yucky to climb when you are getting tired. But I totally recognized it. I just wasn't sure still. I was doubting myself. And I was losing not only my cell service, but my location service too (we couldn't get offline maps to work at home so I was stuck without for now). I wasted energy by going back and trying to see if I missed something, but no, I didn't. I went back to the road and wasted energy again. Sure enough, I came to the entrance that I needed. This was where I remembered there being an arrow type sign that said "View" last year, but it was washed away this time.
I was planning on actually taking a look at the water source at Frog pond. Last year I didn't even approach it. Bad move again, as I wasn't drinking enough and the water sources were so so scarce. Anyway, I went to check it out, took one look at the water and said out loud, "Not on your life." There was absolutely no way I was taking that water. Ewwwwwwww! I wasn't desperate for it, would just be topping it up and I knew there was a source one or two kilometres away from the Grand View site if I was desperate.
I carried on and eventually got to the Grand View site. It was just as beautiful as I remembered. I didn't hurt nearly as much as I did last year, but I hurt enough. The first thing to do was get camp set up. I was there around 6 I think (took me longer to get there as I took more breaks and I was cleaning my water properly this time).
My notes say that I didn't eat dinner like last year because again I was nauseous and not hungry. Maybe I made it for breakfast? Who knows? It was so long ago and I get a bit kookoo for cocoa puffs when I'm on the trail.
Eating actually made me gag. Now I don't know if I went to la la land or what, but I remember clearly right now, eating my first Mountain House scrambled eggs in a tortilla. I remembering making myself eat it all because you have to carry out your garbage and the last thing I needed was to carry food out. The rotting smell, the smell attracting animals, the extra weight. No, can't do it.
Anyway, the breakfast burritos made me gag. I was thinking that once again I overpacked on my food. I just can't eat that much. I was urged to take more than I planned, but from now I'm listening to my body. It told me the last three trips that I can't eat very much. I just can't.
I tried to do a bear hang for my food. I actually got good at it with the exception of getting the damned rocks OVER a branch that was strong enough and high enough. I gave up. I was so glad I had my bear cannister. I knew something would happen. I also found that the trees aren't really set up there for the PCT method. I'm going to have to look at other methods using two trees for next time.
After dinner or was it before bedtime in the case of no dinner: mosquitos. In the tent.
At bedtime: Mosquito Carcasses. In the tent.
I can't remember what time I went to bed at, but it was early. It was still light out. Hopefully I won't be up at 1 AM like I sometimes am at home. It was probably around 8:30.
Here's a pic of Kelowna in the middle of the night.
Time to sleep away my fears of Day 2. The day I got lost last year.
Flowers from my first attempt. These pictures do not do them justice: their beauty, and the overall placement within nature took up so much of my time on day 1. I gasped at times. I pretty much don't know what they all are lol. This post is basically a slide show and all pictures are untouched.
This is a scene of one of my favourite parts of the whole trip. I think of it daily, wondering if it will be the same on my 2018 trip (should be since I'm planning on the same week of July). This really was a gasper for me!
